Sunday 8 April 2012

Coats and difficulties

Well, it is done. In fact, it has been done for a little while, but I simply have not had the time to write about it.


Initially, everything went to plan


The layout was a little tight, and I was pretty glad I was working in plain cloth without any nap or pattern. The skirts were cut o the sweep, and used all the cloth that is hanging from the edge of the table in the picture. You might be wondering why there are no inlays - well, I know it fits, from the horsehair fitting, and I have stayed the same shape for about seven years now and doubt I will be changing that soon!


All going to plan so far - each part of the body is joined to the corresponding piece of horsehair - this is to give it enough shape, as it really is very light cloth.

Not too worried about the fact that it isn't lying flat, as a bit of work with the iron will fix that. Going well so far...


Bugger. That isn't right...perhaps part of the problem is the cloth gripping the clothes underneath. Is it going to be better with the lining?

Nope. Well then, back to first principles. Those pleats are hanging from two points, more or less. Two lines of tension. These are the under crease of the pleat - which happens to also be a seam - and the top crease. The problem I'm having is the fabric is a little too floppy and a great deal too light. Too late to add any structure to the skirts. Thankfully there was a simple solution. The aforementioned two lines of tension could be aided with small lead weights, stitched into the hem at the points the pleats are supposed to crease. Still needs a tad more pressing, but...


Much better. That is pretty much how they are supposed to look. One pressing later, and here we go.


One shawl collar single breasted frock coat. It might not look summery, but it really is pretty cool wearing. Perfect for committing dastardly deeds...


(Not in shot - the heiress tied to the tracks)